Piccole Dolomiti

Routes
30
Grades
4a to 7a
Elevation
1,350 m
Approach
30-40 min
GPS
45.74618N, 11.18574E
Location
Sengio Alto

Piccole Dolomiti is a crag of about 30 sport routes nestled at the foot of the ridge spanning between Monte Cornetto and Monte Baffelan. It's located right at the border between Trentino and Veneto above the Pasubio valley about 30 km from Rovereto.

The routes are on a south-facing wall and the area is well developed and comfortable. There is a map of all the routes and there are even some benches in the surrounding pine forest.

The routes range from 4a to 7a in terms of difficulty, they usually span between 15 and 25 meters, and they are well equipped.

Map

Parking • Approach • Routes

🧗 Piccole DolomitiMonte Cornetto1899 mMonte Baffelan1793 m🏠Rif. CampogrossoPStrada del RePPian delle FugazzePCampogrossoRecoaro TermeSant'AntonioValli del Pasubio

Approach

From Pian delle Fugazze

3.11 km 200 m 40 min Show GPX on map Download GPX
GPX data

Park at the Pian delle Fugazze parking lot or higher up along Strada del Re if you come early enough and manage to get a spot. Follow Strada del Re up to a fork where trail 175 turns right and climbs up to Torre dell'Emmele. There is a sign for the crag already there. Follow the trail 175 up until the first switchback and then continue straight ahead following the signs to the crag.

From Rifugio Campogrosso

3 km 170 m 30 min Show GPX on map Download GPX
GPX data

Park at Rifugio Campogrosso and follow Strada del Re in the opposite direction to the crag until you reach the Torre dell'Emmele fork. From there, follow the signs to the crag as described in the first option above.

Climbing

The crag is split into 4 sectors. 3 along the main wall, 1 on an overhanging detached boulder below.

The leftmost sector has the easiest routes. They unfortunately share 3 anchors and they get pretty busy. The middle sector has some hard and intermediate routes. They are long and fun. The rightmost sector has two 5c and some more intermediate climbing. The 5c routes are harder than the ones on the left. They're slightly slabby with smaller holds.

The detached boulder sector has 2 overhanging routes. We tried the 6a. Once you get through the first few moves on polished holds, it gets super fun. The end packs a punch too. We recommend starting on the left and traversing to the right to the first bolt.

Weather & season

The crag is mostly sunny as it is on the south wall. On a hot day, it might be almost too sunny. You can hide in the trees while resting, but the climbing itself can get toasty.

It's only at 1,300 m so the weather does not get extreme, but on some days it gets foggy as the clouds roll in and get stopped by the mountains.

Guidebooks & sources