Finally Skiing at Passo Carezza
We are no strangers to Carezza. We’ve been here in the summer for climbing Via del Gracchio on Torre Edwards of the Cattinaccio group. And we’ve also passed the pass (pun intended) multiple times in the winter since sometimes it’s the fastest way of reaching Val di Fassa from Trento.
But we’ve never skied it. Until now.
Getting to Passo Carezza & Parking
We left Trento at around 8:45 in the morning and set out on A22 towards Bolzano. It was Sunday and the highway was empty so in less than 40 minutes, we were exiting at Bolzano Nord and getting on SS241 driving up Eggental.
A few minutes later we were in Ponte Nova. There you can go right to Latemar but go left and aim for the Cattinaccio peaks.
Shortly after, we arrived in Nova Levante. Nova Levante is the closest “bigger” town to Carezza and you can actually park there and take the Laurin gondola up to the ski area.
We’re spending the night in Hotel Lake & River which is almost at the pass so we pass Nova Levante and continue driving.
At 10:00 we made it to the parking lot by the Paolina chairlift. We were lucky and found a spot immediately, but the parking lot was pretty busy. We expected the ski area to be pretty bumpin’ today. It’s a beautiful clear-sky SUNday, so no wonder.
Alternatively, you can also reach Carezza from Val di Fassa by taking a turn at the roundabout in Vigo di Fassa and driving up Via Carezza from the valley.
Our recommended free parking options for Carezza Ski.
Carezza Ski Area
The ski area is spread over the slopes on both sides of the pass. The majority of the skiing is on the west-facing slopes under Roda di Vael. On top of that there is one chairlift servicing a black and a red run on the north-east slope of Cima Poppe (2,460 m).
The main access points are from Passo Carezza itself, from Nova Levante via the Laurin gondola, or even from Tires via the long cable car.
Beginner & Warm-up Terrain
The Blues that are Too Blue
Daysi was sick and she was out of the game for a while so we wanted to take it easy and do a few blue runs to warm up. After consulting the map, it looks like there is a reasonable blue run by the gondola on the Cima Poppe side.
We head over there, but we learn that the gondola is super short and the run is super flat. Not ideal.
Well, scratch the warm-up plan. While we’re already there, we decided to take the chairlift all the way up and check out the steeper runs. We’ll cover those in the next section.
We eventually end up taking the blue run back to the main Carezza area and as expected, it is short and flat. You have to carry some speed, otherwise you’ll end up walking the initial catwalk. And you also have to make almost no turns, otherwise you won’t make it across the flats at the end of the run. Not exactly ideal for beginners. Especially for snowboarding beginners.
On the bigger side of the resort it’s a similar story. There’s a blue run under the Franzin gondola, but that’s really only a catwalk again.
There’s also one that goes all the way down to Nova Levante. On the map it looks amazing, but it’s really narrow and mostly on the fake icy snow, especially the lower part that’s at quite low elevation. Definitely not fun for beginners.
The only blue run worth mentioning is the relatively long one under the Tschein chairlift. That one is actually good but since it’s the only one, the chairlift gets quite busy.
Ski Schools
With all that said, there are a few ski-school areas serviced either by a short pull-lift or by the magic carpet. Those did look excellent for absolute beginners or small kids.
Where to Ski if You Mean Business: Best Red and Black Runs at Carezza Ski
The slopes around the Carezza pass might be very mellow at the bottom, but they get steep quickly as you go higher.
That means the area has some surprisingly fun harder runs - the reds and the blacks. They are all similar - relatively steep, straight down, medium length.
There’s one on the Cima Poppe side; that one will get the morning sun while the rest of the area is still in the shade, so we recommend going there for a few laps at the beginning of your day.
Then there are two equally fun steep runs around the Paolina chairlift. That one has an intermediate station so you can opt out from the very top steepest bits.
And then there are 2 more under the Laurin II gondola starting by the Fronza alle Coronelle rifugio.
These two are the longest of them all and they also have some open terrain around them that is fun in fresh snow.
Where to Eat and Drink at Carezza Ski
Lounging in the Sky
King Laurin clearly liked to wine and dine in style, and the Carezza ski area is very hut-rich.
For the views, we recommend visiting the Laurin Lounge at the top of the Laurin 2 gondola. You enter through a concrete cave from the gondola station and you pop out at the top of the world.
Enjoy the views while sipping on your coffee, beer, or some sparklidge (sparkling wine). We didn’t eat there, but the food looked pretty tempting. The service was a bit slow and chaotic, but who cares with views like that.
Keep it dirtbag
We ate our leftover pizza from the day before dirtbag-style on the wooden railing by the Tschein chairlift station in Moser Alm while people-watching the skiers elbow-fighting in the lift line.
Alternatively, we saw some comfy looking benches by the bottom station of the Laurin I gondola. As a bonus, there is a public bathroom right there.
We like to save our coin for the après ski brewskis so we're often serching for the best lunch break spots where we can enjoy our home-made sandos in peace.
The wooden fence by the Tschein chairlift will do on a sunny day, but it's not any lunchbreak gem. For more comfort, head over to the benches by the bottom station of the Laurin I gondola.
Dirty Apres Ski
Whether you skied all there is in Carezza or your kids are still shredding the bunny slope, there’s no better place to park it than the Snack Bar at the bottom of the Paolina lift.
It’s by far nothing fancy. It’s rowdy, it smells funky, and the tables are sticky - basically like any of us after a successful ski day. But they have good beer, aperitivos, and all kinds of low-key food, like the amazing cheese & speck pretzel we had.
Exactly what you can ask for before rolling back to your car. The Snack Bar closes at 18:00 sharp so make sure you don’t miss the last call.
Summing Up - Who is Carezza Ski Good for?
As you might have guessed, Carezza Ski didn’t quite earn a spot on our list of all-time favorites, but we also didn’t hate it.
If you’re coming with a family looking for a smaller resort with good ski schools where you can drop your kids off, get some turns in, and lounge in one of the many huts, then Carezza is perfect.
If you’re coming with a bunch of friends, you’re in it for a good time, and you use skis mostly as a means of transport between the huts, then Carezza is your place.
If you’re looking for a low-key ski day somewhere new and pretty, then the views from Carezza will knock your breath out.
The only time you might be disappointed is if you just put on your brand-new spandex suit and you are not stopping until the edges on your skis are gone. Carezza might just not be the right place for you, as the serious runs here are rather short and a few too few.
Where to Stay in Carezza?
We stayed at Hotel Lake & River for 130 EUR per night for both of us, breakfast included. It’s not any luxurious hotel, but it was clean, the staff was nice, and the breakfast was amazing. Exactly what we wanted for a low-key ski trip stay.
But like we said, Carezza can feel a bit dead after the sun sets. If you’re looking for something more lively but still within driving distance, we suggest either Vigo di Fassa or Nova Levante. Here are some options:
Where to stay around Carezza Ski
Non-Ski Activities in Carezza
Apart from skiing and hiking, the area is known for the Carezza Lake, one of the few true alpine lakes known for its turquoise-colored water that on a clear day reflects the surrounding jagged peaks like a perfect mirror.
In the winter, the lake is covered in a blanket of snow, so there obviously won’t be any mirroring, but the trails around are maintained all year round and the views are stunning, snow or not. Check out our Lago di Carezza hike description.
Besides the wonders of nature, there is a pretty decent Thai restaurant at the Lake & River hotel that is open every day. We thought it would be empty, but to our surprise it filled up quickly in the evening and people even had reservations. It was the first pad Thai we had since moving to Italy, and it did not disappoint.
Other than that, Carezza itself is pretty low-key and it dies out once the skiers leave, so if you’re looking for a bustling nightlife or more dining options, one of the bigger towns down in the Fassa Valley might be a safer bet.