Planning a trip to Cortina d’Ampezzo? Here’s an honest review of skiing, crowds, prices, hotels, food and drinks, and what to expect in one of the Dolomites’ most famous resorts.
Note: In case you’re interested in just skiing, check out our review of Cortina’s Tofana ski area.
Cortina d’Ampezzo: First Impressions
It didn’t take long for the full-body chills to hit when we arrived in Cortina d’Ampezzo. The views are surreal. The rock faces soar straight into the sky, sharp and dramatic, and all you can really do is feel small and humbled in their presence. And that’s coming from someone who has lived in the Italian Alps for half a year and traveled all throughout the Dolomites. Trust me when I say this. The views hit different here.
If you’ve never heard of Cortina d’Ampezzo, you will soon. The town is set to become a global stage as a co-host of the Milano-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games, taking place from February 6 to February 22, 2026. Cortina will host curling, sliding sports like bobsleigh, skeleton, and luge, the new Olympic sport of ski mountaineering, and women’s alpine skiing events.
Needless to say, we knew this charming alpine town was about to blow up. We wanted to experience it before it did. That said, Cortina is already legendary. People have been coming here for decades for the full Dolomites experience. The Olympics are just putting an even bigger spotlight on it.
When We Went to Cortina d’Ampezzo (and Why Timing Matters)
We chose to visit Cortina during the second week of January, specifically Monday and Tuesday, January 12–13. The goal was simple: avoid the crowds as much as possible. And honestly, it worked. The town wasn’t empty by any means, but it didn’t feel overwhelmed or overly touristy either. The slopes were more than manageable - we didn’t have to wait once. The streets felt lively but calm. It had that perfect balance where things felt open and welcoming, not chaotic.
If you’re flexible with timing, midweek in January is a really solid choice.
The Drive to Cortina (and a Worthwhile Stop)
We left our home base of Trento early on January 12th at 7:30 a.m., tea in hand, and headed to Cortina. The drive itself is beautiful, winding through valleys and mountain towns that feel pulled straight out of a postcard.
One stop that really stood out was Alleghe . We hadn’t planned to stop, but we’re so glad we did. The lake was completely frozen, surrounded by mountains, and it was incredibly picturesque. We popped into Bar Bianco for a quick espresso and bathroom break and immediately felt the friendliness of the town.
In need of a bathroom break we stumbled upon this warm welcoming bar in the heart of Alleghe.
Two espressos & croissant
4.30 EUR
There are a couple of steps inside the bar, and an older woman behind the counter kindly warned me to watch my footing. It was one of those small, human moments that sticks with you. You can park in the lot just below the bar , and I really recommend stopping here to stretch your legs and get some fresh mountain air. We also learned there’s skiing in Alleghe, which we had no idea about, and now it’s on our “come back for a proper visit” list.
How to Get to Cortina d’Ampezzo
If you’re flying in, Venice is the closest major international airport. From Venice, it’s about a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Cortina.
Another option is flying or taking a train to Bolzano, which is roughly a two-hour drive away. If you don’t want to rent a car, you can take the Cortina Express bus from Venice to Cortina. One-way tickets typically cost between €11 and €19. Tickets can be purchased online through their website or at Mooney points throughout Italy.
Mountain Roads & Weather
If you decide to drive, just know that Cortina is not on any major highway and you will have to drive on mountain roads and cross mountain passes. That is totally fine and the roads are usually well maintained. But in case of severe weather, it can happen that some of the passes get closed until they manage to clear the road. So if it’s snowing heavily, do your homework and check the passes in advance so you don’t end up having to turn around.
Arriving in Cortina
We arrived in Cortina d’Ampezzo around 11 a.m., a bit too early to check into our hotel, which wasn’t available until 3 p.m. So we parked at one of the main free ski parking lots in Cortina ( Socrepes ) and headed straight to the slopes.
The parking lot was pretty full, but that didn’t translate to crowded skiing. A lot of parking areas are currently closed due to Winter Olympics preparations, so even though the lot looked packed, the slopes themselves were surprisingly mellow. A good reminder that in Cortina, appearances can be deceiving.
After several hours in the car, I was more than ready to snowboard. One thing that immediately stood out was how warm it was. There was snow on the slopes, but like many classic ski towns around the world, you can always wish for more. That said, the skiing was really enjoyable. Between the views, the sunshine, and the lack of crowds, it was a great start to the trip. After a few hours, I decided to call it early. I wasn’t feeling my best and wanted to relax and explore town instead. David stayed on the mountain and made the most of every open run Cortina had to offer. You can read more about his full ski-day experience in his Tofana ski area post.
Our recommended free parking options for skiing in Cortina d'Ampezzo.
From the Slopes to Downtown
I took the gondola down into town, and from there it’s only about a ten-minute walk to downtown Cortina. I was still in my snowboard boots and carrying my board, and honestly, the walk was totally manageable. While there are free ski shuttles available, if you’re staying in town or just want to walk, it’s absolutely doable.
On the way, I passed Cortina’s Olympic Stadium and several active construction zones tied to the upcoming Olympics. It was cool to see everything in progress, and I can’t wait to see what it all looks like once it’s finished.
I also walked past a snow-covered mini golf course that was clearly closed for the winter, but immediately caught my attention. Curiosity got the best of me, so I looked it up and found that it’s Minigolf Helvetia It has great reviews, and I’m officially adding it to my summer Cortina to-do list.
Downtown Cortina & the Midday Pause
Before long, I arrived downtown, and the area is just so cute and vibrant. There are cafés and shops lining the streets, a stunning church at the center, and the mountains towering in the background. The views really are the icing on the cake.
It was around 1 p.m., which meant a lot of places were closed. That includes the local grocery store, La Cooperativa di Cortina, and the pharmacy. This is because of riposo, the traditional Italian midday break when many shops close for a couple of hours, usually between about 12:30 and 3:30 p.m.
I ducked into Bar Sport for an espresso macchiato, and it was exactly what I needed. Warm, cozy, and buzzing with people. It felt intimate and lively at the same time, and would be a great spot for either a quick coffee or an aperitivo later in the day.
While waiting for the Coop to reopen at 3 p.m., I wandered around a bit more. I almost stopped into Pasticceria Alverà for something sweet, but decided to keep exploring instead.
Once the Coop opened, I went inside and was genuinely surprised by how big it is. This is the go-to place for anything you might need or have forgotten. Groceries, shampoo, toothpaste, clothes, home goods, feminine products. You name it, they probably have it.
With everything I needed in hand, I made my way back toward the hotel to finally check in and settle in for the evening.
Where to Stay in Cortina: Hotel Serena Review
We stayed at Hotel Serena , a place I found that hit the sweet spot between budget-friendly and walkable to town. We booked a superior double/twin room with a balcony, and for our dates it was listed at €130 per night on their website, which is definitely on the more affordable end for Cortina.
The rooms have been recently renovated and are beautifully designed. Modern, cozy, and extremely comfortable. I originally chose this hotel because of the price and location, but once we arrived, it was clear we got way more than we paid for.
That said, definitely check prices ahead of time. Rates vary a lot depending on season and demand. We were there during a lower-demand period in January, and I imagine prices during and after the Olympics will be a very different story.
Our room had large windows and a balcony that opened up to stunning views of the Dolomites and the ski slopes. The balcony faced Tofana, with views of Croda da Lago, Becco di Mezzodì, and over Cortina itself. Sitting out there after a long day on the mountain felt unreal. Add in a big, comfy bed, and it was the perfect place to fully unwind. We slept so well here.
The bathroom was spacious, and we especially loved the heated racks. They were perfect for drying wet ski clothes and gloves overnight.
Breakfast was included and honestly exceeded expectations. There was a great variety of options, and it was the perfect way to start a ski day without having to think too hard in the morning. Location-wise, it was great. There’s a large, free parking lot right at the hotel, which made coming and going completely stress-free. It’s also just a short walk into town, and there’s a scenic walking path directly across the street. We used that path to walk to and from dinner each night, which was a really nice way to relax and digest after a meal. Although, remember to bundle up! Because the temperature definitely drops at night.
And lastly, the staff were incredibly friendly, welcoming, and helpful throughout our stay. Which we always appreciate!
Dinner and Dessert in Cortina: Cozy, Casual, and Comfort Food
David made it back to the hotel around 4:30 p.m., absolutely wiped from a full day of snowboarding. He showered and immediately crashed on the bed, which honestly worked out perfectly, since most dinner spots in Cortina don’t open until around 7 p.m.
After a few hours, he came back to life and we debated our dinner plan. Do we grab something easy, like pizza to-go and bring it back to the hotel, or commit to a sit-down meal? We ended up choosing a proper dinner. We were only in Cortina for one night, and if we’re being honest, we eat pizza all the time back in Trento. It felt like the right moment to try something a little more local.
We decided on Pontejel Bierstube Forst . The food looked hearty, the interior cozy but not fancy, and most importantly, the beer selection was solid. David loves a good beer, so that definitely helped seal the deal. We’d only packed casual clothes, and the vibe here felt like a perfect fit.
We didn’t make a reservation and arrived around 6:45 p.m. The place was almost empty at first, which we later realized was because you can’t order dinner until 7 p.m., even though they open earlier. Totally fine by us. We ordered beers, settled in, and looked over the menu.
Casual, low-key, but delicious dinner in Cortina. We'd give it 5 stars if it was less bright and a bit more rustic. But that's just a personal pref.
Full dinner with 2 main courses and 3 beers.
61.50 EUR
As soon as 7 p.m. hit, people started pouring in. The longer we stayed, the busier it got. I’d definitely recommend arriving right before dinner service or early in the evening if you want to guarantee a table.
For food, I ordered the Nuremberg sausages with french fries and sauerkraut for €14.50. It came with a little cup of condiments with ketchup, mustard, and mayonnaise, which felt very on brand. David was fully in a meaty mood and went for the Bierstube platter, which included Hungarian beef goulash, pork rib, frankfurter, sauerkraut, dumplings, and Ampezzo-style potatoes for €22.50. Everything was comforting, filling, and exactly what we wanted after a long day in the cold. The service was quick, the atmosphere cozy, and we left very satisfied.
You can check out their full menu here if you’re curious.
If we had gone the quick pizza route instead, we would have stopped at Ampezzo Pizza .
We passed it on our walk to the Bierstube, and it was always popping. Definitely a good option if you want something casual to take back to your hotel.
The desserts at Pontejel Bierstube Forst looked amazing, but at that point I was completely full. I also really wanted an excuse to walk around Cortina a bit more, so we decided to try a different spot for something sweet.
We ended up at Da Po' and it immediately felt like a good choice. The place was packed with locals, which is always a great sign. It’s more than just a gelateria. It feels like a full-on café, with drinks, an espresso bar, and people lingering inside. There was even a lively group celebrating a birthday, which added to the warm, buzzy energy.
I ordered a scoop of yogurt and raspberry gelato in a cone, and it was divine. Light, refreshing, and exactly what I wanted after such a hearty dinner. It totally hit the spot.
There’s also a warm and cozy indoor seating area where you can enjoy your gelato or a drink, which was especially perfect on a winter night. It felt like one of those places you could easily pop into whether you’re craving something sweet, a late-night espresso, or just want a nightcap to soak up a little local atmosphere before calling it a night.
Final Thoughts: Cortina, After Dark and Beyond
Walking around Cortina d’Ampezzo at night was such a highlight. The streets were softly lit, festive lights still hanging, and it honestly felt like getting a second dose of Christmas cheer. Everything felt calm and magical, the kind of place that invites you to slow down and just wander. After that, we went back to the hotel, completely exhausted in the best way, and passed out almost instantly. The next day, we skied from start to finish, soaking up every last second of the views before it was time to leave.
Cortina truly exceeded all of our expectations. The views, the affordability, the local food, and the spots that felt authentic rather than overly catered to tourists. I’m so grateful we got to experience this surreal alpine town the way we did. If you get the chance, I really recommend visiting during the off-season. It felt relaxed, approachable, and genuinely special.
I have no idea what Cortina is like at peak season, but I can imagine it’s a very different experience. That said, one thing is for sure. No matter when you go, the rocks will still be there.
And yes, Cortina absolutely lived up to the hype. I already can’t wait to come back during a different season, maybe spring, early summer, or late summer, to see this place in an entirely new light.
Frequently Asked Questions
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